Perhaps, everyone who has ever studied history at least once dreamt of solving its mysteries, witnessing some crucial events and meeting ancient people, their way of life and traditions. Ukrainian vyshyvanka (traditional Ukrainian embroidered shirt) having a long and glorious origin, like a time machine, will help us return to our history.

The journey has begun

However, it is necessary to say that our ancestors did not learn to embroider symbols of the pattern at once. If we could see the way of life of the Scythians, we would found ancient embroidered shirts that children, women and men used to wear, as well as amazing drawings on the tableware and other objects of everyday use.

Some talismans were pounced on weapon, religious things, helmets and shields. It was believed that it would help to win in battle, because the Scythians were warriors, spies and explorers. The patters serving as talismans accompanied our ancestors in the other world as well. Even well-known Scythian stone women were adorned with the elements of the pattern that can be regarded as the first vyshyvanka.

Vyshyvanka in Kievan Rus’

Travelling further, we will get to Ukraine of the 10th-12th centuries. In Kievan Rus’, the symbolism of vyshyvanka (traditional Ukrainian embroidered shirt) became more refined and splendid. At this period, we can already notice two trends in embroidery: ornamental and thematic organically combined and put into linen.

At all times, the symbols of vyshyvanka were completely clear for both our ancestors and us. Here we can see anthropomorphic motifs, images of plants and animals, and a variety of geometric figures connected by a common purpose – to retell about one’s family and protect it. By the way, there is a hypothesis that patterns were placed on those parts of clothing that open access to the body. At that time, men’s shirts were adorned with embroidery only near the collar, while women’s shirts were richly embroidered: near the collar, on the sleeves and on the hem of a skirt.

Later, the art of embroidery using golden and silver threads became popular. It can be found while studying the clothing of the feudal aristocracy and priests, as well as the decoration of temples, churches and palaces. However, common people adorned their shirts with the patterns embroidered using red and black threads.

Kievan princes supported the tradition of wearing vyshyvankas. For example, in the 11th century, the sister of Vladimir Monomakh, Hanna established the school for girls at the monastery aimed at teaching them the art of embroidery.

We can find a lot of records of embroidered clothing in many written sources, including, “The Tale of Igor’s Campaign”, the Hypatian Codex and other documents.

period of the Zaporozhian Sich

The period of the Cossack Hetmanate is characterized by the formation of the Ukrainian national costume featuring an embroidered shirt acquiring a symbolic value for all Ukrainians.

From the 17th century to the present

The history goes further and brings us to the 17th-18th centuries. What can we see here? The Ukrainian clothing worn in the frontier areas was influenced by the neighbouring countries. As a result, new fabrics, the elements of cut and design techniques appeared. However, the clothing worn in central regions managed to retain its authenticity and traditional symbolism.

Due to a swift development of the industry in the 19th century, wealthier segments of the people began to wear European clothing combining it with embroidered silk shirts and other valuable fabrics, while the villagers preserved their customs and traditions. Here one could see handsome men in wide embroidered shirts tucked into trousers, delicate women in plakhtas (skirt-like clothing) embroidered with mallows and cornflowers, as well as beautiful children wearing light-coloured clothes adorned with embroidered angels and Christian symbols. Casual clothing was made from homespun cloth, while festive clothes were made from fabrics produced in local factories. They were embroidered in silk threads and decorated with beads.

The symbols of the Ukrainian vyshyvanka passed through centuries without losing their power and beauty. Unfortunately, glorious times of the Cossacks have already passed, but their spirit and Ukrainians’ thirst for freedom are still alive. Thus, vyshyvanka does support this spirit by fulfilling the God-given purpose – to protect Ukraine and its citizens from enemies, betrayal and misfortunes.

Perhaps, everyone who has ever studied history at least once dreamt of solving its mysteries, witnessing some crucial events and meeting ancient people, their way of life and traditions. Ukrainian vyshyvanka (traditional Ukrainian embroidered shirt) having a long and glorious origin, like a time machine, will help us return to our history.

The journey has begun

However, it is necessary to say that our ancestors did not learn to embroider symbols of the pattern at once. If we could see the way of life of the Scythians, we would found ancient embroidered shirts that children, women and men used to wear, as well as amazing drawings on the tableware and other objects of everyday use.

Some talismans were pounced on weapon, religious things, helmets and shields. It was believed that it would help to win in battle, because the Scythians were warriors, spies and explorers. The patters serving as talismans accompanied our ancestors in the other world as well. Even well-known Scythian stone women were adorned with the elements of the pattern that can be regarded as the first vyshyvanka.

Vyshyvanka in Kievan Rus’

Travelling further, we will get to Ukraine of the 10th-12th centuries. In Kievan Rus’, the symbolism of vyshyvanka (traditional Ukrainian embroidered shirt) became more refined and splendid. At this period, we can already notice two trends in embroidery: ornamental and thematic organically combined and put into linen.

At all times, the symbols of vyshyvanka were completely clear for both our ancestors and us. Here we can see anthropomorphic motifs, images of plants and animals, and a variety of geometric figures connected by a common purpose – to retell about one’s family and protect it. By the way, there is a hypothesis that patterns were placed on those parts of clothing that open access to the body. At that time, men’s shirts were adorned with embroidery only near the collar, while women’s shirts were richly embroidered: near the collar, on the sleeves and on the hem of a skirt.

Later, the art of embroidery using golden and silver threads became popular. It can be found while studying the clothing of the feudal aristocracy and priests, as well as the decoration of temples, churches and palaces. However, common people adorned their shirts with the patterns embroidered using red and black threads.

Kievan princes supported the tradition of wearing vyshyvankas. For example, in the 11th century, the sister of Vladimir Monomakh, Hanna established the school for girls at the monastery aimed at teaching them the art of embroidery.

We can find a lot of records of embroidered clothing in many written sources, including, “The Tale of Igor’s Campaign”, the Hypatian Codex and other documents.

period of the Zaporozhian Sich

The period of the Cossack Hetmanate is characterized by the formation of the Ukrainian national costume featuring an embroidered shirt acquiring a symbolic value for all Ukrainians.

From the 17th century to the present

The history goes further and brings us to the 17th-18th centuries. What can we see here? The Ukrainian clothing worn in the frontier areas was influenced by the neighbouring countries. As a result, new fabrics, the elements of cut and design techniques appeared. However, the clothing worn in central regions managed to retain its authenticity and traditional symbolism.

Due to a swift development of the industry in the 19th century, wealthier segments of the people began to wear European clothing combining it with embroidered silk shirts and other valuable fabrics, while the villagers preserved their customs and traditions. Here one could see handsome men in wide embroidered shirts tucked into trousers, delicate women in plakhtas (skirt-like clothing) embroidered with mallows and cornflowers, as well as beautiful children wearing light-coloured clothes adorned with embroidered angels and Christian symbols. Casual clothing was made from homespun cloth, while festive clothes were made from fabrics produced in local factories. They were embroidered in silk threads and decorated with beads.

The symbols of the Ukrainian vyshyvanka passed through centuries without losing their power and beauty. Unfortunately, glorious times of the Cossacks have already passed, but their spirit and Ukrainians’ thirst for freedom are still alive. Thus, vyshyvanka does support this spirit by fulfilling the God-given purpose – to protect Ukraine and its citizens from enemies, betrayal and misfortunes.